If necessary to keep them from sagging, I can easily put the roof boards at 12" OC, or use 2x8s at 16" OC. They will also butt up to a cross beam that I will nail through and into them. Yes, where the roof meets the clerestory, I have some rough cut true 2圆s that will go across the coop for the roof boards to rest on. The current plan is to use 3/4" osb with corrugated steel roofing, but I'm open to changing that. They probably used better wood back then. They do sag but I've had 3' of snow on it. My house roof was built in the 60 and it's a 14 foot span (peak to outside wall) with 2圆s on 16" centers. Where the short roof and the clerestory meet, what holds up those ends of each roof? Strong cross beams from side to side? The walls at each end of the building (16 feet apart from each other) should hold that end of the roofs up just fine, I'm wondering how well the other ends of those roofs will be supported. Mike Haasl wrote:What kind of roofing will you put on it? Sorry for the confusing first post, and I much appreciate you guys trying to help in spite of my lousy description. My lumber for the roof is whatever they sell at all American do it center. The front section is not steep at all, but it's a shorter span. The rear section of the roof is steep enough that I expect it to shed snow easily. I only want to build this coop once, but I also don't want to use double the lumber that I need. Every span table I look at makes it seem like that isn't enough. The plans also show 24" between rafters, if that is the correct word, so 5 rafters for the 8'wide coop. Since I'm using dimensional lumber, I was going to use 2圆s. In the original plans from the book, I believe all boards were true 2x4, in Minnesota, with snow loads approximately like ours in Wisconsin. The wall under that section is 9'8 1/2" long. The roof section on the back of the coop is ten feet tall at one end and goes down to five feet at the back of the coop. The wall under that roof section is 6'3 1/2" long. The roof section that starts at the front of the building starts at five feet and goes up to six feet. Kinda sucks.To add to my terrible earlier descriptions, the coop is roughly 8'x16' and has two roof sections with a clerestory. Looking now at the picture you didn't do any favors on fixing it usually I put 2x4 on flat on top. Easiest way is just cut the same rafters slip them under and roll in place might need 2 ppl but its doable and then toe screw the rafters to the perlings you have 24 oc.the extra cost sucks but it will make a much sturdier roof. Now you could argue with them threaten with lawyer because they said it was fine but you will be dealing with them for most home projects so don't pass them off if possible they can make like shitty. while even if you signed a waiver of sorts they passed it and general rule with failure leading to injury is sue everyone and there would technically be grounds for it if they approved and passed something that doesn't measure ip to what codes are set. Usually why the require engineers on larger projects they are the ones who tell you your load factors but on smaller projects building departments have guidelines as to what will work for certain spans of lumber for the various uses. If they pass that structure and it doesn't comply with current building standards regardless of weather it slipped trough on initial approval they would be assuming responsibility because the building department is there to prevent things being built that can fail under normal calculated loads that are set for every state and region based on wind, weather, soil so forth. Not sure what your municipality requires but in NY you can sign a waver to do it yourself without other insurance. You may have signed a formal taking liability for the building if you are the homeowner, as businesses have to include insurance and put comp coverage that extends to municipality during construction.
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